28 Oct Tama Lakes Track | New Zealand
WHAT TO DO WHEN THE TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING IS CLOSED
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is often hailed as the best day-hike in the world, and like many, we trained for months, eagerly anticipating the challenge. But when we arrived at Tongariro National Park, ready for the adventure of a lifetime, the weather had other plans. Strong winds and rain meant that the trail would be closed for the entire week. It was disappointing—especially after all that preparation—but we weren’t ready to give up. And while we’ll definitely be back one day to complete the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, we’re almost glad it didn’t work out this time because we discovered something incredible: the Tama Lakes Track.
OUR JOURNEY TO PLAN B
As soon as we realized the Tongariro Alpine Crossing wasn’t going to happen, Danny jumped into action, searching for alternatives. That’s how we found the Tama Lakes Track, a less-famous, but equally spectacular hike within Tongariro National Park. It was honestly the best backup plan we could have asked for!
From the moment we set off, we were blown away by the beauty of the trail. I could hardly put my camera down—the views were stunning. In fact, Danny almost had to take the camera away because I couldn’t stop snapping photos! One of the highlights was a quick 5-minute detour down to Taranaki Falls, a gorgeous waterfall that we had all to ourselves. There’s something special about discovering a place like that in total solitude.
WHAT TO EXPECT ON THE TAMA LAKES TRACK
The Tama Lakes Track takes you on a 17 km (10.5 miles) round trip through breathtaking landscapes, with incredible views of Mt. Ruapehu and Mt. Ngauruhoe. After the peaceful detour to Taranaki Falls, we continued the trail, enjoying the ever-changing scenery. We reached the first lake, Lower Tama, and it was everything we’d hoped for—clear waters surrounded by rugged volcanic peaks.
But the real challenge was the climb to Upper Tama Lake. The ascent was no joke, but once we reached the top, the views were absolutely worth it. From that vantage point, you can see both lakes framed by the dramatic mountain landscape. We weren’t the only ones there, but it felt like a close-knit group at the top—everyone shared snacks and stories as we took in the views together.
A PERFECT ENDING TO THE DAY
After making our way back down, we wrapped up our day with a cup of tea at Chateau Tongariro, a historic spot that, unfortunately, has since closed. It was the perfect way to wind down after such an unforgettable hike.
HOW TO ACCESS THE TRAILHEAD
The Tama Lakes Track starts from the Whakapapa Village, located in Tongariro National Park. This village is the main hub for hikes in the area, with a visitor center offering maps and information on current trail conditions. There’s ample parking available, and it’s also a great spot to stop for a snack or cup of coffee before or after your hike.
CHECK FOR VOLCANIC ACTIVITY AND WEATHER
New Zealand’s Tongariro National Park is home to active volcanoes, so it’s important to check for any volcanic activity before heading out. You can check alerts on the Department of Conservation (DOC) and GeoNet websites for the latest updates. It’s also wise to monitor the weather, as conditions can change rapidly, especially at higher elevations.
TIPS FOR HIKING THE TAMA LAKES TRACK
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Bring Layers: Even if the weather looks clear when you start, remember that conditions in the Tongariro National Park can change rapidly. It can get windy and cold at the higher elevations, so bring layers and waterproof gear just in case.
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Start Early: As with any hike in New Zealand, it’s best to start early to avoid afternoon cloud cover, which can obscure the views.
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Check the Weather and Volcanic Alerts: Though the Tama Lakes Track is less prone to closures than the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, it’s still a good idea to check both the weather forecast and volcanic activity updates before heading out.
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Take Your Time: One of the best things about the Tama Lakes Track is the number of scenic spots to stop and take in the surroundings. Don’t rush—take your time and enjoy every view.
CONCLUSION: DON'T LET WEATHER RUIN YOUR ADVENTURE
While missing out on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing can feel like a huge letdown, don’t be discouraged. The Tama Lakes Track turned out to be an incredible alternative, and for us, it was a highlight of our New Zealand adventure. If you find yourself in a similar situation, embrace the unexpected and set out on the Tama Lakes Track—you won’t regret it.
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